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Beta - n. (Bay - tah`) any piece of advice or information that will help you climb a route. The following short list should help you pick up on some of the lingo you might hear around the crag or rock gym.
Upper Body Bump: To use an intermediate handhold to transition to a higher hold without shifting body position. Campus: To climb using only the arms. A method of training grip, contact and upper body strength. Crimp: A grip in which the 1st knuckle is extended allowing the fingertips to rest on a small ledge while the 2nd knuckle is flexed. Cross-Over: Bring one arm across the other as you reach for a new hold. Gaston: Grip a handhold that is above and to the side of the body with the hand in a thumbs down positions. A potentially dangerous body position because of the stress placed on the rotator cuff of the shoulder. Lock Off: Grip a single hand hold with enough strength to allow the other hand to transition to a new hand hold. Latch: Successfully grip a hold, a skill that is dependent on contact strength, accuracy and timing. Slap - To touch a handhold but fail to latch it. Match: Bring both hands to the same handhold. Side Pull: A hold that is oriented to the side of the body and cannot be pulled in a downward direction. Undercling: A hold which is oriented in a downward direction. Opposition can be created by pulling upward and maintaining body tension through the feet.
Lower Body Backstep: Placing a foot behind the body with the foot on its outside edge allowing the hip to roll inward, closer to the wall. Drop Knee: Similar to the backstep, but the knee is rotated inside and downward allowing the foot to push sideways or toe hook on a hold that is too high to backstep. Flag: An extended leg that counterbalances the body and prevents the center of mass from barn dooring. Frog Step: A frontal body position in which both legs are extended simultaneously to reach higher handholds. Hand-Foot Match: To place a foot on the same hold as a hand. Heel Hook: Rest the heel on a hold thereby taking some weight off of the arms, usually employed on steep or overhanging terrain. Knee Bar - A resting position achieved by caming the top of the knee and a foot between two holds. Knee-Bar:a rest position that can be useful when climbing steep or overhanging terrain, achieved by camming the upper thigh and foot against two holds. Rock On: To shift body weight from one foot to the other. High Step - Lift up a leg to reach a high foot hold. Step-Through: To step sideways in front of the leg that you are standing, usually in a traverse. Swap Feet: To exchange feet on the same hold. Smear: Placing the foot directly on the rock where there are no obvious holds and gaining purchase solely from the friction between the shoe and rock (no pun intended)
Full Body Barn Door: The tendency of the body to swing outward away from the wall on steep terrain when the center of gravity is not centered between points of contact. Dyno: A dynamic movement to reach a distant hold where momentum is required to propel the body. Hip Roll: Rotating the hips from a frontal position to face sideways bringing the hip closer to the wall. Used in conjunction with a backstep the hip roll can be used to maintain body tension on overhanging routes by putting the leg in a more biomechanically effective position to push off of the foot hold. Lay Back:To support the body by creating opposition between pulling arms and pushing feet. Mantle: A hand-foot match in which the body rocks on to a ledge similar to the motion you would use to get out of a swimming pool. Turnout: To extend the hips and draw the body closer to the rock in a frontal position. Twist Lock: A transitional movement in which the body is twisted towards the hold being locked off allowing the locking off arm to straighten and bringing the reaching shoulder higher and closer to the wall extending its reach. Stem: To support the body using opposition created by pressing the hands and or feet outward in opposite directions.
Arete: a protruding corner of rock. Big Wall: A multi-pitch climb that typically takes more than a day to complete. Chimney: A crack wide enough to fit your entire body in. Crux: The hardest move on a route. Dihedral: an inside corner formed by two intersecting rock faces. Features: The unique features of the rock that allow climbing - (i.e. holds, cracks etc.) At indoor gyms, people refer to features as the permanent textures or holds in the wall itself as opposed to holds which are bolted on and can be moved around the create routes and boulder problems. Flash: On-sight with beta. Jugs: Big, deep holds. Mono: A small pocket that will fit only one finger. Nubbins: Small holds that may make decent footholds, but are often too small to use as handholds. Off-Width: An awkward sized crack that is too big for decent hand and foot jams, but too small for your entire body. On-Sight: Lead climb from top to bottom without falling and without previous knowledge of the route. Red-Point: Lead climb from bottom to top without falling after rehearsing the moves. Sloper: A hold without a definite ledge, typically requiring an open grip and subtle shifts in hand and/or body position to achieve maximum friction.
Motor Engram: A series of nerve impulses that are necessary to complete a movement. Power: Simultaneous muscle contraction to produce
a short burst of strength. Grip Strength: The strength required to hang on a hold once it has been latched, see below. Contact Strength: The strength required to gap and grip a hold at speed. Latching a hold requires strength and power, but also the correct timing to coordinate your muscles contractions into a sudden burst of power.
PARS Outdoor
Pursuits Program  |
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Design and Photography:
Ryan
Ojerio June
1, 2002 |
