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Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann.
Stackpole Books. 1993.
Don't let the 80's neon cover fool you, this one is my favorite
for a decent balance of science and readability. It presents theory
on coordination, psychology, and muscle physiology, plus a good
chapter on tactics.
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Climbing Your Best: Training to Maximize Your Performance
by Heather R. Sagar. Stackpole Books. 2001.
With lots of specific exercises and a very detailed approach to
training this book is ideal for the anal retentive person who wants
to climb better.
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How To Climb 5.12 by Eric J. Horst. Falcon
Publishing Inc. 1997.
Although it has less detail than Sagar's book,
this one is more readable and has all the essentials on how to approach
training for harder routes plus a good chapter on "mental techniques"
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