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PEOL 252
Wed. 2:00-4:00: Indoor Climbing Facility
Instructor: Ryan Ojerio
Phone: 341-1485
Email: ryan_ojerio@hotmail.com
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| Crack Climbing Techniques |
Good face climbers can interpret complex hand and foot
sequences, moving efficiently from one body position to the next constantly
shifting their center of gravity relative to their hands and feet. Crack
climbing sequences, however, are often repetitive, ascending the seam
of the crack like an inchworm. Of course, body position is still important
in crack climbing, but perhaps the greater challenge for the aspiring
crack climber is figuring out how to create "holds" from vertical
cracks. Learning the subtleties of finger, hand, fist and foot jams involves
building a repertoire of movement patterns, or motor engrams, just like
learning face climbing techniques. So repetitive practice with a variety
of widths of cracks is the best way to build your "bag of tricks"
for becoming a crack master. "The Columns" on the west side
of Skinner Butte is an excellent place to learn crack techniques while
on top rope. Check out the Anchor
Principles Page were we'll discuss how to build a top rope anchor
from two bolt placements.
Finger Cracks
By experimenting with different hand positions and fingers
you can get secure holds for a variety of widths of cracks. Check out
the difference between using your hand in a thumbs up and thumbs down
position.
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THUMBS UP - PINKY JAM
1. For the thinnest cracks, use a thumbs up position to
allow you to slot your pinky and ring finger. Look for a constriction
in the crack and slide your hand in above it and pull down to set
the jam.
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| 2. You'll get a
secure jam if you can slot your first knuckle just above the constriction
so it gets wedged in tight when you pull down. For a tighter lock,
cam your hand inward, towards your thumb. |
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THUMBS DOWN
1. When the cracks get a little wider, insert your hand
in the thumbs down position to use the index and middle fingers.
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| 2. Note how the
fingers stack on one another, putting as many digits in the crack
as possible. Again, twisting your hand inward increases the counter
pressure for a more secure lock. |
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THUMBS DOWN
1. As the crack widens you may be able to slot the thumb
too.
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| 2. Stack your fingers
and cam your hand by rotating your elbow inward. |
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Hand Cracks
Too large to get good finger jams, but perfect for the
hand, notice how you can create oppositional pressure by cupping your
fingers and flexing your thumb. As with finger cracks, you can slot a
hand jam in the thumbs up or thumbs down position. Experiment with both.
How do the different positions affect your arm position and your body
position?
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THUMBS UP - HAND JAM
1. Make your hand as thin as possible and slide it in the
crack, moving it up and down to feel around for constrictions in
the crack that you may not be able to see.
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| 2. To create counter
pressure you can cup you hand pressing your fingers on one side and
your knuckles on the other. To fatten your palm flex your thumb down
as if you were trying to touch it to the base of your pinky. |
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| As the crack widens, notice
how your fingers pull down even further in a "crimped" position. |
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Fist Cracks
Uh oh! too wide for a hand jam... what
to do?
| As the crack widens notice
how the fingers are crimped all the way down, but they are beginning
to lose purchase on the right side of the crack. |
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| Turn your fist palm down
and ball up your fist, clenching tight to expand the fleshy part of
your palm to create counter pressure. |
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"Hidden
Booty" - Taking a look or feeling around in a crack can sometimes
yield hidden treasures, consider the following examples:
| Although this crack is
too wide for a good finger lock, its also too shallow to get a decent
hand jam. But deeper in there's a thinner crack! |
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| Slide your hand in deeper,
slot those fingers, and this awkward crack turns into a great finger
lock! |
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Check out how the index finger is resting on a slight "ledge"
on the right side of the crack. Counter pressure with the knuckles
keeps the fingers pressed on the ledge for a secure open grip even
though the "ledge" is pretty thin and sloping.
Similarly, hidden vertical ledges inside cracks can turn into great
sidepulls.
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Footwork
With hands it is easy to alternate between
a thumbs up and thumbs down position because your wrist offers such a
wide range of motion. But your ankles are a lot less flexible. Try this
experiment, sitting in a chair, rotate your foot into a "big toe
up" position and then try a "big toe down" position. Which
feels more natural? Which position keeps your center over your feet?
| 1. With a secure
hand hold to lock off on, my body weight is supported by a smear as
I move my foot up and rotate it to slot it above a constriction in
the crack. |
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| 2. Twisting my
knee inward cams the foot in the crack and puts my leg in a good position
to stand up keeping my center over my feet. Since this crack flares
out, I can also get some friction from the sides of my shoe if I keep
my heel down putting more rubber from my sole onto the rock. |
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Stemming
Stemming is a great way to make gravity
work in your favor to get a rest position or ascend a seemingly blank
wall.
| Check out how Jay's legs
are pressed against the opposite walls of this chimney. Gravity pulls
his center down, driving his legs into the wall, increasing the friction
on his feet as they smear or rest on tiny ledges that would be impossible
to stand on without the stem. |
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| Here you can see how Jay
creates counter pressure with both legs and bracing his back against
the wall. Standing up from this position he'll be able to reach handholds
higher up, or if non exist, he can push his hands and back against
the wall and then walk his feet up and repeat the process. |
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Go Jay, You the Man!
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Layback
If you can't get your body position for
decent jamming, consider a layback. The key to a good layback is keeping
your body positioned so you get the best use of your legs. If your feet
get too high, you're not standing on them and the only way you can keep
from falling is to create massive oppositional force by pushing with your
legs and pulling hard with your arms. On the other hand, if you move your
hands up too quickly and let your feet get too low, you'll lose the pressure
needed to drive your shoes into the wall and you'll find yourself sliding
down, scraping the rubber off of your shoes as you go.
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Jay keeps his arms straight, saving his biceps while ascending
a crack that is too close to the corner to allow his body to get
in position for jamming.
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Making a Tape
Glove - Drawings and instructions from Metolius.
Although, its not necessary, a well made
tape glove will save the skin on the back of your hand and make for more
secure hand jams. Its a skill well worth having if you plan to spend a
day on crack.
| 1. Place 3 strips
of tape across the back of your hand, overlapping each strip by about
1/4". Make sure the top strip covers your knuckles. |
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| 2. Starting on
the back of your wrist, run a strip of tape up, around the base of
your index finger and back down your wrist. Bunch the tape together
where it passes around your finger. Repeat for the pinkie (some folks
wrap all of the other fingers). Repeat strips to build up a thick
enough layer of tape to protect the skin. |
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| 3. Anchor your
tape job with several wraps around your wrist. Now you have full protection
on the back of your hand for jamming, but your palm is bare for grabbing
face holds. |
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| 4. To remove, simply
cut the wrist wraps on the inside of your wrist. Carefully pull the
tape glove off intact. |
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| 5. Save yourself
some coin and reuse your glove. |
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6. Just slip it back on and re-wrap the wrist. You'll be
amazed how long a well-made glove will last.
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For more info on crack techniques including some drawings
of off-width crack techniques, check out the following web resources:
Rock
1 Website
SmithRock.com
PARS Outdoor
Pursuits Program
Recreation
Center Rockwall
Physical Activities and
Recreation Services (PARS)
Outdoor
Program
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